The Boucheron's playful new high jewelrycollection has Paris buzzing.
Last week, the talk in Paris was all about Boucheron. The French house's latest high jewelry collection sparked such excitement that practically everyone on the Place Vendôme was wondering, "Have you seen Boucheron yet?!"
The Maison delivered a wildly fun '80s-themed collection inspired by the colorful and graphic Memphis Movement, founded by Italian architect, Ettore Sottsass, that included a group of creatives who created a specific style of postmodern furniture, lighting, fabrics, and more throughout the '80s that mi
As a result, the collection was highly inventive, pushing the boundaries of high jewelry (or any jewelry for that matter) to new heights.
We felt like we were looking at the future of jewelry with pieces like a Rubik's cube necklace, gem-set hoodie tassels that transform into earrings, a funky hair tie on a rubber band that transforms into a ringthat looks like a Ring Pop, or a shockingly cool diamond-and-onyxpocket that fits an iPhone and attaches to any piece of clothing with magnets.
The days of Haute Joallerie being limited to black-tie galas are long gone. This is how Generation Z and future generations will perceive and wear fine jewelry.
Last week, we visited the collection in person, where the Boucheron team had gone so far as to have custom-made ensembles in solid pops of cherry red, lime green, tangerine orange, and other colors to emphasize the message.
The jewels are truly more impressive in person, as is most jewelry, but in this case, there is an additional layer of "must-see." That pocket, for example, was designed with creases similar to those on your jeans so that it folds in layers when you sit down.
What's with the stiff-looking striped bow hairpiece? It is truly flexible and bends when the head is tilted and scrapes against the collarbone.
After watching my live posts on the collection, a colleague DM'd me on Instagram and commented, "Beyond." What a shocking departure. Will it, however, sell?!?" It's a reasonable question.
The work, like much trailblazing art, is not originally welcomed by everyone, but great jewelry is not for the people by definition. To his point, fine jewelry clients aren't always avant-garde.
So, who is purchasing? One client who claimed to have purchased numerous pieces has not one, but three PhDs. These clients, like the jewels, are anything but average and nothing short of remarkable.
Boucheron In the Pocket is a diamond and onyx pocket that attaches to garments with magnets strong enough to carry your iPhone.
An Apple A Day Ring and Bracelet can be joined to form a solid sphere of tsavorites set in titanium and white goldthat can also be used as a home accessory.
The piece is attached to garments using ultrasonic magnets, and the tassel ends detach to create earrings.
Boucheron's Just An Illusion Necklace is meant to curl atop the shoulders like a royal livery collar, with diamonds and spessartite Mandarin garnets set in rock crystal and embellished with cream in titanium and white gold.
Boucheron's Solve Me necklace is designed to resemble a Rubik's cube and is adorned with diamonds, grey spinels, pink sapphires, and a mother-of-pearl set in aluminum and white gold.
They are not perfect squares, like the actual cubes in a Rubik's puzzle, but are slightly slanted underneath, allowing them to position well on the neck.
Boucheron This Is Not a Scrunchie hair tie with tsavorites and mother-of-pearl embellished with lacquer and set in titanium changes to a ring.
The Boucheron Tie the Knot brooch or hair gem is constructed of diamonds set in red bio acetate and magnesium. Bio acetate is lighter since it is manufactured from wood paste and cotton fibers.
The usage of magnesium inexpensive jewelry is a first, as the metal is 30% lighter than aluminum. Before being set, the material strips are formed and then colored black using a cataphoresis treatment.
This piece had 200 components and, despite its appearance, is actually flexible where it falls over the collarbone.
Boucheron ring set with mother-of-pearl, paved with tsavorites, and lacquered in resin and titanium (from left to right); Ring in resin and titanium set with diamonds; Ring in resin, titanium, and white gold set with Murano glass, paved with diamonds, and lacquered; Ring in resin, titanium, and white gold paved with diamonds and yellow sapphires and set with rock crystal.
Boucheron Do Not Iron Brooch set with sapphires, quartz, and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, and decorated with lacquer, in white gold; Do Not Iron Brooch paved with diamonds, and decorated with lacquer, in silverand white gold; Do Not Iron Brooch paved with diamonds, and decorated with lacquer, in silver and white gold.
(Right): Do Not Iron Brooch in yellow and white gold, set with a 2.14 carat Mozambique tourmalineand chrysoprases, paved with yellow sapphires and diamonds, and lacquered.